TRAVELS,

&c. &c.

CHAPTER XXV.

Journey to New York-Leave Montreal- La Prairie-St. John's-Independent Whig-Fellow Travellers-Sloop Dolphin-David—Crossing the Line-Merman seen in the Richlieu River-English Negotiators - Isle au NoixAnecdote of a Soldier-Cumberland HeadCanoe upset-Ducking-Shelburne Bay-American Hospitality-Lake Champlain Crown Point Accident-Floating Ice-Old Ti, or Ticonderoga-Gale of Wind-Wood CreekRun the Vessel ashore-Excursion through the Woods-Whitehall-Capture of General Bur goyne-Account of Saratoga-American Stage Waggon.

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1877

On the afternoon of the 10th November I left Montreal in company with the American captain, and crossed over in a canoe to Longueil, which Coron the south-east shore of the St. Lawrence,

LA PRAIRIE.

nearly opposite the city. There we hired a calash, and proceeded about nine miles up the river to La Prairie de la Madelaine, a small village which derived its name from the extensive meadow land in its vicinity, dedicated to Mary Magdalen. This place contains about 100 houses, a church, and two or three inns kept by Americans; but the town is inhabited mostly by French Canadians. It is the medium of communication between Montreal and St. John's, and of the commerce carried on between the United States and Lower Canada.

We slept at La Prairie that night, and next morning set off for St. John's in an American stage drawn by three horses. Though I was still in Canada, yet the novelty of such a vehicle made me fancy myself already in the States; and the illusion was increased by meeting with American inn keepers who spoke English, and in every thing else presented a great contrast to the maitres des postes on the other side of the river. About seven miles from La Prairie we stopped at an American tavern to breakfast, and for a quarter of a dollar were plentifully supplied with beef-steaks, eggs, and tea; and, to add to the pleasure of our dejeuné, were attended by a very pretty girl.

A few Habitant houses and farms are scattered along the road; but a great part is yet unculti vated. Within two or three miles of St. Jo.....

the road reaches the Richlieu river, and, bending to the right, proceeds along its bank until it approaches that village. The country on the east or left bank of the river is unsettled, and covered with thick woods on the other side; along the road, towards the village, there are a few indifferent farms; it has the appearance of a new country, though it is upwards of seventy years since the fort at St. John's was constructed. We arrived at St. John's about one o'clock; and having been recommended to Watson's tavern, I put up there till the wind was favourable for the vessel to sail.

The village of St. John consists only of one short street of houses, most of which are stores and inns. Among the latter Cheeseman and Watson's are the best. They are Americans, and the former keeps the best inn at La Prairie; he is also owner of most of the stages which run between the two places. Accommodations at both taverns are, however, very indifferent, though superior to what are afforded at the Canadian post-houses. There is a custom-house in this village, where the exports to and imports from the States are registered, and the duties paid. It stands in the fort, which is situated about two hundred yards from the village. The latter contains a magazine, a few pieces of cannon, and a detachment of soldiers; but it is altogether incapable of effectual defence. The fortification ¿consists of a sort of earthen redoubt, thrown up

INDEPENDENT WHIG:

around a few houses and a magazine, and strengthened with cedar picketing.

I had waited two days at St. John's, during which I was prevented going out of doors in consequence of the wet weather and bad roads, when I was informed that the vessel in which I was to have sailed had taken advantage of a favourable breeze and left the town in the middle of the night. I was much vexed at this news, as it was uncertain when another vessel would come in, and it was expected that the lake would be frozen over in a few days. I was also astonished that the captain never came to inform me that he ́intended to sail, and could not help suspecting that my landlord had played me a trick in order "to detain me longer in his house.

I was therefore obliged to remain three days longer in imprisonment at this miserable village. I amused myself with reading an old book which the landlord lent me, called The Independent 'Whig, published in 1720, and containing much satire and invective against the high church or Tory party, and the ministers of the established religion. This book was formerly much readin the English colonies of America, and tended greatly to assist that spirit of independence and republicanism which afterwards led to the Revolution.

S

On Sunday afternoon a small sloop came in

from Burlington, which I understood was immediately engaged by three gentlemen at Cheeseman's tavern to take them to Skenesborough. While I was preparing to go down to the wharf the master of the vessel called upon me, and I instantly engaged a passage to the same place. He was to discharge his cargo that afternoon, and to sail at night if the wind became favourable, A Mr. Welch soon after arrived at Watson's, and as he was going to New York he also took his passage in the same vessel; and it was agreed that the captain should call for us when he was ready to start. So anxious was I not to miss this opportunity of quitting a place which had now become completely disagreeable to me, that I would not go into bed, but merely laid myself down in my clothes. My precautions were however useless, as it was not till nine o'clock the next morning that the vessel was ready to sail. Having entered our names at the guard-house, we went on board, and immediately got under weigh with a light 7 breeze...!

I was agreeably surprised to find that one of the three gentlemen who had engaged the vessel Ewas Mr. Storrow, an American merchant, whom I had met at Dillon's Hotel: he was returning to -Boston by the way of New York, in order to arrange his affairs previous to his opening a store at Montreal the following spring. The other two