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up with the last of the soap and starch. “I lovely lake and the grand woods, till the sound wonder,” said Annie,“when I shall ever have of H.'s horse at the gate broke the spell. nicely starched clothes after these? They had no starch in Natchez or Vicksburg when I was there.” We are now furbishing up dresses suit
HOMELESS AND SHELTERLESS. able for such rough summer travel. While we sat at work yesterday the quiet of the clear, Thursday, July 10. Plantation.)-Yescalm noon was broken by a low, continuous terday about four o'clock we walked to the lake roar like distant thunder. To-day we are told and embarked. Provisions and utensils were it was probably cannon at Vicksburg. This is packed in the lockers, and a large trunk was a great distance, I think, to have heard it — stowed at each end. The blankets and cushover a hundred miles.
ions were placed against one of them, and Annie H. and Max have bought a large yawl and and I sat on them Turkish fashion. Near the are busy on the lake bank repairing it and fit- center the two smaller trunks made a place for ting it with lockers. Aunt Judy's master has Reeney. Max and H. were to take turns at the been notified when to send for her; a home rudder and oars. The last word was a fervent for the cat Jeff has been engaged; Price is God-speed from Mr. E., who is left in charge of dead, and Sancho sold. Nearly all the furniture all our affairs. We believe him to be a Union is disposed of, except things valued from asso- man, but have never spoken of it to him. We ciation, which will be packed in H.'s office and were gloomy enough crossing the lake, for it left with some one likely to stay through the was evident the heavily laden boat would be war. It is hardest to leave the books. difficult to manage. Last night we staid at this
Tuesday, July 8.- We start to-morrow. plantation, and from the window of my room Packing the trunks was a problem. Annie and I see the men unloading the boat to place it I are allowed one large trunk apiece, the gen- on the cart, which a team of oxen will haul to tlemen a smaller one each, and we a light the river. These hospitable people are kindcarpet-sack apiece for toilet articles. I arrived ness itself, till you mention the war. with six trunks and leave with one! We went Saturday, July 12. (Under a cotton-shed on over everything carefully twice, rejecting, try- the bank of the Mississippi River.)— Thursday ing to shake off the bonds of custom and get was a lovely day, and the sight of the broad down to primitive needs. At last we made a river exhilarating. The negroes launched and judicious selection. Everything old or worn reloaded the boat, and when we had paid them was left; everything merely ornamental, except and spoken good-bye to them we felt we were good lace, which was light. Gossamer evening really off. Every one had said that if we kept dresses were all left. I calculated on taking in the current the boat would almost go of two or three books that would bear the most itself, but in fact the current seemed to throw reading if we were again shut up where none it about, and hard pulling was necessary. The could be had, and so, of course, took Shak- heat of the sun was very severe, and it proved spere first. Here I was interrupted to go and impossible to use an umbrella or any kind of pay a farewell visit, and when we returned shade, as it made steering more difficult. Snags Max had packed and nailed the cases of books and floating timbers were very troublesome. to be left. Chance thus limited my choice to Twice we hurried up to the bank out of the those that happened to be in my room way of passing gunboats, but they took no “ Paradise Lost,” the “ Arabian Nights,” a notice of us. When we got thirsty, it was found volume of Macaulay's History I was reading, that Max had set the jug of water in the shade and my prayer-book. To-day the provisions of a tree and left it there. We must dip up for the trip were cooked: the last of the flour the river water or go without. When it got too was made into large loaves of bread; a ham dark to travel safely we disembarked. Reeney and several dozen eggs were boiled; the few gathered wood, made a fire and some tea, and chickens that have survived the overflow were we had a good supper. We then divided, H. fried; the last of the coffee was parched and and I remaining to watch the boat, Max and ground; and the modicum of the tea was well Annie on shore. She hung up a mosquito-bar corked up. Our friends across the lake added to the trees and went to bed comfortably. In a jar of butter and two of preserves. H. rode the boat the mosquitoes were horrible, but I off to X. after dinner to conclude some busi- fell asleep and slept till voices on the bank ness there, and I sat down before a table to woke me. Annie was wandering disconsolate tie bundles of things to be left. The sunset round her bed, and when I asked the trouble, glowed and faded and the quiet evening came said, “Oh, I can't sleep there! I found a toad on calm and starry. I sat by the window till and a lizard in the bed.” When dropping off evening deepened into night, and as the moon again, H. woke me to say he was very sick; rose I still looked a reluctant farewell to the he thought it was from drinking the river water. With difficulty I got a trunk opened to Max was surprised into an answering cheer, find some medicine. While doing so a gun- and I waved my handkerchief with a very full boat loomed up vast and gloomy, and we gave heart as the dear old flag we have not seen for each other a good fright. Our voices doubt- so long floated by; but Annie turned her back. less reached her, for instantly every one of her Sunday, July 13. (Under a tree on the east lights disappeared and she ran for a few min- bank of the Mississippi.) — Late on Saturday utes along the opposite bank. We momently evening we reached a plantation whose owner expected a shell as a feeler.
invited us to spend the night at his house. What At dawn next morning we made coffee and a delightful thing is courtesy! The first tone of a hasty breakfast, fixed up as well as we could our host's welcome indicated the true gentlein our sylvan dressing-rooms, and pushed on, man. We never leave the oars with the watchfor it is settled that traveling between eleven man; Max takes those, Annie and I each take and two will have to be given up unless we a band-box, H. takes my carpet-sack, and want to be roasted alive. H. grew worse. He Reeney brings up the rear with Annie's. It is suffered terribly, and the rest of us as much to a funny procession. Mr. B.'s family were absee him pulling in such a state of exhaustion. sent, and as we sat on the gallery talking it Max would not trust either of us to steer. needed only a few minutes to show this was a About eleven we reached the landing of a “ Union man.” His home was elegant and plantation. Max walked up to the house and tasteful, but even here there was neither tea returned with the owner, an old gentleman nor coffee. living alone with his slaves. The housekeeper, About eleven we stopped here in this shady a young colored girl, could not be surpassed place. While eating lunch the negroes again in her graceful efforts to make us comfortable came imploring for tobacco. Soon an invitaand anticipate every want. I was so anxious tion came from the house for us to come and about H. that I remember nothing except that rest. We gratefully accepted, but found their the cold drinking-water taken from a cistern idea of rest for warm, tired travelers was to beneath the building, into which only the sit in the parlor on stiff chairs while the whole winter rains were allowed to fail, was like an family trooped in, cool and clean in fresh toilets, elixir. They offered luscious peaches that, with to stare and question. We soon returned to the such water, were nectar and ambrosia to our trees; however they kindly offered corn-meal parched lips. At night the housekeeper said pound-cake and beer, which were excellent. she was sorry they had no mosquito-bars ready Eight gunboats and one transport have and hoped the mosquitoes would not be thick, passed us. Getting out of their way has been but they came out in legions. I knew that on troublesome. Our gentlemen's hands are badly sleep that night depended recovery or illness blistered. for H. and all possibility of proceeding next Tuesday, July 15.- Sunday night about ten day. So I sat up fanning away mosquitoes we reached the place where, according to our that he might sleep, toppling over now and map, Steele's Bayou comes nearest to the Misthen on the pillows till roused by his stirring. sissippi, and where the landing should be, but I contrived to keep this up till
, as the chill be- when we climbed the steep bank there was no fore dawn came, they abated and I got a short sign of habitation. Max walked off into the sleep. Then, with the aid of cold water, a woods on a search, and was gone so long we fresh toilet, and a good breakfast, I braced up feared he had lost his way. He could find no for another day's baking in the boat.
road. H. suggested shouting and both began. If I had been well and strong as usual the At last a distant halloo replied, and by cries the discomforts of such a journey would not have answerer was guided to us. A negro came forseemed so much to me; but I was still weak ward and said that was the right place, his from the effects of the fever, and annoyed by master kept the landing, and he would watch a worrying toothache which there had been the boat for five dollars. He showed the road, no dentist to rid me of in our village.
and said his master's house was one mile off Having paid and dismissed the boat's watch- and another house two miles. We mistook, and man, we started and traveled till eleven to- went to the one two miles off. At one o'clock day, when we stopped at this cotton-shed. we reached Mr. Fetler's, who was pleasant, and When our dais was spread and lunch laid out said we should have the best he had. The bed in the cool breeze, it seemed a blessed spot. into whose grateful softness I sank was piled A good many negroes came offering chickens with mattresses to within two or three feet of and milk in exchange for tobacco, which we the ceiling, and with no step-ladder getting in had not. We bought some milk with money. and out was a problem. This morning we no
A United States transport just now steamed ticed the high-water mark, four feet above the by and the men on the guards cheered and lower floor. Mrs. Fetler said they had lived upwaved to us. We all replied but Annie. Even stairs several weeks.
current swinging it against the raft, H. and
Max thought it safer to watch all night, but FRIGHTS AND PERILS IN STEELE'S BAYOU.
told us to go to sleep. It was a strange spot Welnesday, July 16. (Under a tree on the to sleep in — a raft in the middle of a boiling bank of Steele's Bayou.) — Early this morning stream, with a wilderness stretching on either our boat was taken out of the Mississippi and side. The moon made ghostly shadows and put on Mr. Fetler's ox-cart. After breakfast showed H., sitting still as a ghost, in the stern we followed on foot. The walk in the woods of the boat, while mingled with the gurgle of was so delightful that all were disappointed the water round the raft beneath was the boom when a silvery gleam through the trees showed of cannon in the air, solemnly breaking the the bayou sweeping along, full to the banks, silence of night. It drizzled now and then, and with dense forest trees almost meeting over it. the mosquitoes swarmed over us. My fan and The boat was launched, calked, and reloaded, umbrella had been knocked overboard, so I had and we were off again. Towards noon the no weapon against them. Fatigue, however, sound of distant cannon began to echo around, overcomes everything, and I contrived to sleep. probably from Vicksburg again. About the H. roused us at dawn. Reeney found lightsame time we began to encounter rafts. To wood enough on the raft to make a good fire get around them required us to push through for coffee, which never tasted better. Then all brush so thick that we had to lie down in the hands assisted in unloading; a rope was fastboat. The banks were steep and the land ened to the boat, Max got in, H. held the on each side a bog. About one o'clock we rope on the raft, and, by much pulling and reached this clear space with dry shelving pushing, it was forced through a narrow pasbanks and disembarked to eat lunch. To our sage to the farther side. Here it had to be surprise a neatly dressed woman came tripping calked, and while that was being done we down the declivity bringing a basket. She improvised a dressing-room in the shadow of said she lived above and had seen our boat. our big trunks. During the trip I had to keep Her husband was in the army, and we were the time, therefore properly to secure belt and the first white people she had talked to for a watch was always an anxious part of my toilet. long while. She offered some corn-meal pound. The boat is now repacked, and while Annie cake and beer, and as she climbed back told and Reeney are washing cups I have scribbled, us to “ look out for the rapids.” H. is putting wishing much that mine were the hand of an the boat in order for our start and says she is artist. waving good-bye from the bluff above.
Friday morn, July 18. (House of Colonel K., Thursday, July 17. (On a raft in Steele's on Yazoo River.) — After leaving the raft yesBayou.)— Yesterday we went on nicely awhile terday all went well till noon, when we came and at afternoon came to a strange region of to a narrow place where an immense tree lay rafts, extending about three miles, on which clear across the stream. It seemed the insurpersons were living. Many saluted us, saying mountable obstacle at last. We sat despairing they had run away from Vicksburg at the first what to do, when a man appeared beside us in attempt of the fleet to shell it. On one of these a pirogue. So sudden, so silent was his arrival rafts, about twelve feet square, bagging had that we were thrilled with surprise. He said been hung up to form three sides of a tent. A if we had a hatchet he could help us. His bed was in one corner, and on a low chair, with fairy bark floated in among the branches like her provisions in jars and boxes grouped round a bubble, and he soon chopped a path for us, her, sat an old woman feeding a lot of chickens. and was delighted to get some matches in re
Having moonlight, we had intended to travel turn. He said the cannon we heard yesterday till late. But about ten o'clock, the boat begin- were in an engagement with the ram Arkansas, ning to go with great speed, H., who was which ran out of the Yazoo that morning. We steering, called to Max:
did not stop for dinner to-day, but ate a hasty “ Don't row so fast; we may run against lunch in the boat, after which nothing but a something."
small piece of bread was left. About two we "I'm hardly pulling at all."
reached the forks, one of which ran to the “Then we're in what she called the rapids!” Yazoo, the other to the Old River. Max said
The stream seemed indeed to slope down- the right fork was our road; H. said the left, ward, and in a minute a dark line was visible that there was an error in Max's map; but ahead. Max tried to turn, but could not, and Max steered into the right fork. After pulling in a second more we dashed against this im- about three miles he admitted his mistake and mense rast, only saved from breaking up by the turned back; but I shall never forget Old men's quickness. We got out upon it and ate River. It was the vision of a drowned world, supper. Then, as the boat was leaking and the an illimitable waste of dead waters, stretching
1 More likely twelve yards.-G. W. C. into a great, silent, desolate forest.
Just as we turned into the right way, down we ate supper all present poured out the story came the rain so hard and fast we had to stop of the shelling and all that was to be done at on the bank. It defied trees or umbrellas and Vicksburg. Then our stuff was taken from the nearly took away the breath. The boat began boat, and we finally abandoned the stanch to fill, and all five of us had to bail as fast as little craft that had carried us for over one possible for the half-hour the sheet of water hundred and twenty-five miles in a trip occuwas pouring down. As it abated a cold breeze pying nine days. The luggage in a wagon, sprung up that, striking our wet clothes, chilled and ourselves packed in a buggy, were driven us to the bone. All were shivering and blue - for four or five miles, over the roughest road no, I was green. Before leaving Mr. Fetler's I ever traveled, to the farm of Mr. B., H.'s Wednesday morning I had donned a dark- uncle, where we arrived at midnight and hasgreen calico. I wiped my face with a hand- tened to hide in bed the utter exhaustion of kerchief out of my pocket, and face and hands mind and body. Yesterday we were too tired were all dyed a deep green. When Annie to think, or to do anything but eat peaches. turned round and looked at me she screamed and I realized how I looked; but she was not much better, for of all dejected things wet feath
WILD TIMES IN MISSISSIPPI. ers are the worst, and the plumes in her hat were painful.
This morning there was a most painful About five we reached Colonel K.'s house, scene. Annie's father came into Vicksburg, right where Steele's Bayou empties into the ten miles from here, and learned of our arrival Yazoo. We had both to be fairly dragged out from Mrs. C.'s messenger. He sent out a carof the boat, so cramped and weighted were riage to bring Annie and Max to town that we by wet skirts. The family were absent, and they might go home with him, and with it the house was headquarters for a squad of came a letter for me from friends on the JackConfederate cavalry, which was also absent. son Railroad, written many weeks before. They The old colored housekeeper received us kindly had heard that our village home was under and lighted fires in our rooms to dry the cloth- water, and invited us to visit them. The letter ing. My trunk had got cracked on top, and had been sent to Annie's people to forward, and all the clothing to be got at was wet. H. had thus had reached us. This decided H., as the dropped his in the river while listing it out, place was near New Orleans, to go there and and his clothes were wet. A spoonful of brandy wait the chance of getting into that city. Max, apiece was left in the little flask, and I felt that when he heard this from H., lost all self-control mine saved me from being ill. Warm blankets and cried like a baby. He stalked about the and the brandy revived us, and by supper-time garden in the most tragic manner, exclaiming: we got into some dry clothes.
“Oh! my soul's brother from youth up is a Just then the squad of cavalry returned; traitor! A traitor to his country !” they were only a dozen, but they made much Then H. got angry and said, " Max, don't uproar, being in great excitement. Some of be a fool.” them were known to Max and H., who learned “Who has done this?" bawled Max. “You from them that a gunboat was coming to shell felt with the South at first; who has changed them out of this house. Then ensued a clatter you? such as twelve men surely never made before- “Of course I feel for the South now, and rattling about the halls and galleries in heavy nobody has changed me but the logic of boots and spurs, feeding horses, calling for events, though the twenty-negro law has insupper, clanking swords, buckling and unbuck- tensified my opinions. I can't see why I, who ling belts and pistols. At last supper was have no slaves, must go to fight for them, while dispatched, and they mounted and were gone every man who has twenty may stay at home.” like the wind. We had a quiet supper and I, also, tried to reason with Max and pour good night's rest in spite of the expected shells, oil on his wound.“ Max, what interest has a and did not wake till ten to-day to realize we man like you, without slaves, in a war for slavwere not killed. About eleven breakfast was ery? Even if you had them, they would not furnished. Now we are waiting till the rest be your best property. That lies in your counof our things are dried to start on our last day try and its resources. Nearly all the world has of travel by water.
given up slavery; why can't the South do the Sunday, July 20.— A little way down the same and end the struggle. It has shown you Yazoo on Friday we ran into McNutt's Lake, what the South needs, and if all went to work thence into Chickasaw Bayou, and at dark with united hands the South would soon be landed at Mrs. C.'s farm, the nearest neighbors the greatest country on earth. You have no of H.'s uncle. The house was full of Confed- right to call H. a traitor; it is we who are the erate sick, friends from Vicksburg, and while true patriots and lovers of the South."
This had to come, but it has upset us both. Friday morning we took the down train for H. is deeply attached to Max, and I can't bear the station near my friend's house. At every to see a cloud between them. Max, with Annie station we had to go through the examination and Reeney, drove off an hour ago, Annie so of passes, as if in a foreign country. glad at the prospect of again seeing her mother The conscript camp was at Brookhaven, and that nothing could cloud her day. And so the every man had been ordered to report there close companionship of six months, and of or to be treated as a deserter. Atevery station I dangers, trials, and pleasures shared together, shivered mentally, expecting H. to be dragged is over.
off. Brookhaven was also the station for dinner. Oak Ridge, July 26, Saturday.- It was not I choked mine down, feeling the sword hanging till Wednesday that H. could get into Vicks- over me by a single hair. At sunset we reached burg, ten miles distant, for a passport, without our station. The landlady was pouring tea which we could not go on the cars. We started when we took our seats and I expected a treat, Thursday morning. I had to ride seven miles but when I tasted it was sassafras tea, the very on a hard-trotting horse to the nearest station. odor of which sickens me. There was a general The day was burning at white heat. When the surprise when I asked to exchange it for a station was reached my hair was down, my hat glass of water; every one was drinking it as if on my neck, and my feelings were indescribable. it were nectar. This morning we drove out here.
On the train one seemed to be right in the My friend's little nest is calm in contrast to stream of war, among officers, soldiers, sick the tumult not far off. Yet the trials of war are men and cripples, adieus, tears, laughter, con- here too. Having no matches, they keep fire, stant chatter, and, strangest of all, sentinels carefully covering it at night, for Mr. G. has posted at the locked car-doors demanding no powder, and cannot flash the gun into compassports. There was no train south from bustibles as some do. One day they had to go Jackson that day, so we put up at the Bowman with the children to the village, and the servant House. The excitement was indescribable. All let the fire go out. When they returned at the world appeared to be traveling through nightfall, wet and hungry, there was neither Jackson. People were besieging the two hotels, fire nor food. Mr. G. had to saddle the tired offering enormous prices for the privilege of mule and ride three miles for a pan of coals, sleeping anywhere under a roof. There were and blow them, all the way back, to keep them many refugees from New Orleans, among them alight. Crockery has gradually been broken and some acquaintances of mine. The peculiar tin-cups rusted out, and a visitor told me they styles of (women's] dress necessitated by the had made tumblers out of clear glass bottles by exigencies of war gave the crowd a very strik- cutting them smooth with a heated wire, and ing appearance. In single suits I saw sleeves that they had nothing else to drink from. of one color, the waist of another, the skirt of Aug. 11.– We cannot get to New Orleans. another; scarlet jackets and gray skirts; black A special passport must be shown, and we are waists and blue skirts; black skirts and gray told that to apply for it would render H. very waists; the trimming chiefly gold braid and likely to be conscripted. I begged him not to buttons, to give a military air. The gray and try; and as we hear that active hostilities have gold uniforms of the officers, glittering between, ceased at Vicksburg, he left me this morning to made up a carnival of color. Every moment return to his uncle's and see what the prospects we saw strange meetings and partings of peo- are there. I shall be in misery about conscripple from all over the South. Conditions of tion till he returns. time, space, locality, and estate were all Sunday, Sept. 7. (Vicksburg, Washington loosened; everybody seemed floating he knew Hotel.) — H. did not return for three weeks. not whither, but determined to be jolly, and An epidemic disease broke out in his uncle's keep up an excitement. At supper we had family and two children died. He staid to astough steak, heavy, dirty-looking bread, Con- sist them in their trouble. Tuesday evening he federate coffee. The coffee was made of either returned for me and we reached Vicksburg parched rye or corn-meal, or of sweet potatoes yesterday. It was my first sight of the “Gibcut in small cubes and roasted. This was the raltar of the South.” Looking at it from a favorite. When flavored with “coffee essence," slight elevation suggests the idea that the fragsweetened with sorghum, and tinctured with ments left from world-building had tumbled chalky milk, it made a curious beverage, which, into a confused mass of hills, hollows, hillocks, after tasting, I preferred not to drink. Every banks, ditches, and ravines, and that the houses one else was drinking it, and an acquaintance had rained down afterwards. Over all there said, “ Oh, you 'll get bravely over that. I was dust impossible to conceive. The bomused to be a Jewess about pork, but now we bardment has done little injury. People have just kill a hog and eat it, and kill another and returned and resumed business. A gentleman do the same. It 's all we have."
asked H. if he knew of a nice girl for sale. I