Sidney, one of her favourites, wore a huge high collar, ftiffened with whalebone; a very broad stiff laced ruff; his doublet (body and fleeves) bombafted or barrelled, and pinked and flashed all over, fmall oblong buttons, and a loofe long cloak. The cultom of men fitting uncovered in the church, is certainly very decent, but not very ancient. Dr. Cox, bishop of Ely, died 1581, whofe funeral proceffion I have feen an admirable old drawing of; as likewife of the affembly fitting in the choir to hear the funeral fermon, all covered and having their bonnets on. John Fox the martyrologist, who died in 1587, when an old man (as appears by his picture) wore a ftrait cap, covering his head and ears, and over that a deepifh crowned thallow-brimmed flouched hat. This is the firft hat I have yet obferved in any picture. Hats being thus come in, men began then to fit uncovered in the church, as I take it; for as hats look not fo well on men's heads in places of public worship as hoods or bonnets (the former wear), this might probably be the first occafion of their doing fo.

James I. wore fhort hair, large whifkers, and a fhort beard; alfo a ruff and ruff ruffles. In 1612

(10 Jac. 1.) Mr. Hawley, of Gray's Inn, coming to court one day, Maxwell, a Scotsman, Jed him out of the room by a black ftring which he wore in his ear, a fashion then much in ufe; but this had like to have caufed warm blood, had not the king made up the quarrel. Prince Henry, eldest son of James the Ift, wore fhort hair, filletted and combed upward, thort barrelled breeches, and filk thistles or carnations at the tie of his fhoes. The young lord Harrington, this prince's contemporary, is painted in the fame manner, with the addition of ear-drops, a double ruff, and barrelled doublet.

The great tub farthingal was much worn in this reign; the famous counters of Effex is pictured in a monftrous hoop of this fort. In conformity to the ladies of that age, the gentlemen fell into the ridiculous fashion of trunk hofe, an affectation of the fame kind, and carried to fo great a height by ftuffing them out, that they might more properly have been called the farthingal breeches *.

Charles I. wore long hair, particularly one lock longer than the reft, hanging on the left fide †, large wifkers, a piked beard, a ruff, fhoe rofes, and a falling band. His

queen

queen wore a ruff standing on each fide and behind, but her bofom open. Sir Francis Bacon, who died in 1626, in his fine monument at St. Alban's is reprefented with monftrous fhoe rofes, and great bombaft paned hofe, reaching to the knees. About 1641, the forked fhoes came into fashion, almost as long again as the feet, not lefs an impediment to the action of the foot than to reverential devotion, for our boots and fhoes were fo long fnouted, we could hardly kneel. But as a fhort foot was foon thought to be more fashionable, full as much art became neceffary to give it as fhort an appearance as poffible. About 1650 both men and women had the whim of bringing down the hair of their heads to cover their foreheads, fo as to meet their eyebrows. In 1652 John Owen, dean of Christ Church and vicechancellor of Oxford, went in querpo, like a young fcholar, with powdered hair, his band ftrings with very large taffels, a large fet of ribbands at his knees, with tags at the ends of them; Spanish leather boots with large lawn tops, and his hat mostly cocked. After the close-ftool-pan fort of hat, which had now been many years in wear, came in the fugar-loaf or high-crowned hat; thefe, though mightily affected by both fexes, were fo very incommodious, as that,

every puff of wind blowing them off, they required the almoft conftant employment of one hand to fecure them. Charles II. in 1660 appears to have worn a large thick cravat with taffels, a fhort doublet, large ruffles, fhort boots with great tops, a very fhort cloak, and long hair (one lock on the right fide longer than ordinary), all pulled forward, and divided like a long wig on each fide of his face: foon after he wore a perriwig.

There is no end of the whims, vagaries, and fancies in dress which men and women have run into. Whole volumes might be wrote on the subject. However, these rude notes may serve as a sketch of the former times.

Let

Old fables tell us of one Epimenides, who after a fleep of fifty years awaked with amazement, finding a new world everywhere both of men and fashions. this fleep go (as it well may) for a fabulous invention, the effects of it, his amazement, I am fure, might have been credible enough, though the fleep had been shorter by many years. In fome countries, if men fhould but put on those clothes which they left off but four or five years before, and use those fashions which were then in use, they would feem even to themselves ridiculous, and unto many little less than monftrous.

MISCELLANEOUS

On the Art of Swimming.-In a Letter from Dr. Franklin to M. Duborg, the French Tranflator of his Works, in anfwer to fome Inquiries of the latter on the Subject.

AM apprehenfive that I fhall not be able to find leifure for making all the difquifitions and experiments which would be defirable on this fabject. I muft therefore 'content myself with a few remarks. The fpecific gravity of fome human bodies, in comparison with that of water, has been examined by Mr. Robertfon, in our Philofophical Tranfactions, vol. L. page 30, for the year 1757.-He afferts that fat perions with fmall bones float moft eafily upon water.

The diving bell is accurately defcribed in our Tranfactions.

When a youth I made two oval pallets, each about ten inches long, and fix broad, with a hole for the thumb, in order to retain it faft in the palm of my had. They much refembled a painter's pallets. In fwimming I pushed the edges of thefe forward, and I ftruck the water with their flat furfaces as I drew them back. I remember I fwam fafter by means of these pallets, but they fatigued my wrifts. I alfo fitted to the foles of my feet a kind of fandals, but I was not fatisfied with them, because I ob

ferved that the ftroke is partly given by the infide of the feet and the ancles, and not entirely with the foles of the feet.

We have here waistcoats for fwimmers, which are made of double fail-cloth, with fmall pieces of cork quilted in between them.

I know nothing of the fcaphandre of M. de la Chapelle.

I know by experience, that it is a great comfort to a fwimmer, who has a confiderable diftance to go, to turn himfelf fometimes on his back, and to vary in other refpects the means of procuring a progrellive motion.

When he is feized with the cramp in the leg, the method of driving it away is to give to the part affected a fudden vigorous and violent fhock, which he may do in the air as he fwims on his back.

During the great heats of fummer there is no danger in bathing, however warm we may be, in rivers which have been thoroughly warmed by the fan. But to throw oneself into cold spring water when the body has been heated by exercife in the fun, is an imprudence which may prove fatal. I once knew an inftance of four young men, who having worked at harveft in the heat of the day, with a view of refreshing themselves plunged into a fpring of cold water; two died

upon

upon the spot, a third the next morning, and the fourth recovered with great difficulty. A copious draught of cold water, in fimilar circumftances, is frequently attended with the fame effect in North America.

The exercife of fwimming is one of the most healthy and agreeable in the world After having fwam for an hour or two in the evening, one fleeps cooly the whole night even during the most ardent heat of fummer. Perhaps the pores being cleanfed, the infenfible perfpiration increafes and occafions this coolness. It is certain that much swimming is a means of ftop. ping a diarrhoea, and even of producing a conttipation. With refpect to those who do not know how to fwim, or who are affected with a diarrhoea at a feafon which does not permit them to use that exercife, a warm bath, by cleanfing and purifying the fkin, is found very falutary, and often effects a radical cure. I fpeak from my own experience, frequently repeat ed, and that of others to whom I have recommended this.

You will not be displeased if I conclude thete hafty remarks by informing you, that as the ordinary method of fwimming is reduced to the act of rowing with the arms and legs, and is confequently a laborious and fatiguing operation when the space of water to be croffed is confiderable, there is a method in which a fwimmer may pafs to great distances with much facility, by means of a fail:-This discovery I fortunately made by accident, and in the following man

ner:

When I was a boy I amufed myfelf one day with flying a paper

kite; and approaching the bank of a pond which was near a mile broad, the weather being very warm, I tied the ftring to a stake, and the kite afcended to a very confiderable height above the pond, while I was fwimming. In a little time, being defirous of amufing myself with my kite, and enjoying at the fame time the pleasure of fwimming, I returned; and loofing from the ftake the ftring with the little ftick which was fastened to it, I went again into the water, where I found that lying on my back and holding the ftick in my hands, I was drawn along the furface of the water in a very agreeable manner. Having then engaged another boy to carry my clothes round the pond, to a place which I pointed out to him on the other fide, I began to crofs the pond with my kite, which carried me quite over without the leaft fatigue, and with the greatest pleasure imaginable. I was only obliged occafionally to halt a little in my courfe, and refift its progrefs when it appeared that by following too quick I lowered the kite too much, by doing which occafionally I made it rife again. I have never fince that time practifed this fingular mode of fwimming, though I think it not impoffible to crols in this manner from Dover to Calais. The packet-boat, however, is ftill preferable.

T this time, when the general complaint is, that "money is fcarce," it will be an act of kindneis to inform the moneyless, how they may reinforce their pockets, I

will acquaint them with the true fecret of money-catching; the certain way to fill empty purfes, and

Two fimple rules, well-obferved, will do the business.

First, let honefty and induftry be thy conftant companions; and, Secondly, fpend one penny lefs than thy clear gains.

:

Then fhall thy hide-bound pocket foon begin to thrive, and will never again cry with the empty bellyach; neither will creditors infult thee, nor want opprefs, nor hunger bite, nor nakednefs freeze thee. The whole hemifphere will fhine brighter, and pleasure spring up in every corner of thy heart. Now therefore embrace thefe rules and be happy. Banish the bleak winds of forrow from thy mind, and live independent. Then fhalt thou be a man, and not hide thy face at the approach of the rich, nor fuffer the pain of feeling little when the fons of fortune walk at thy right hand for independency, whether with little or much, is good fortune, and placeth thee on even ground with the proudeft of the golden fleece. Oh, then be wife, and let induftry walk with thee in the morning, and attend thee until thou reacheft the evening hour for reft. Let honefty be as the breath of thy foul, and never forget to have a penny, when all thy expences are enumerated and paid: then fhalt thou reach the point of happiness, and independence fhall be thy fhield and buckler, thy helmet and crown; then fhall thy foul walk upright, nor ftoop to the filken wretch because he hath riches, nor pocket an abuse because the hand which offers it wears a ring fet with diamonds. VOL. XXXV.

R

Hints.-By the fame.

EMEMBER that time is mo

ney. He that can earn ten fhillings a day by his labour, and goes abroad, or fits idle one half of that day, though he fpends but fixpence during his diverfion or idlenefs, ought not to reckon that the only expence; he has really fpent, or thrown away, five fhillings befides.

Remember that credit is money. If a man lets money lie in my hands after it is due, he gives me the intereft, or fo much as I can make of it during that time. This amounts to a confiderable fum, if a man has good and large credit, and makes a good ufe of it.

Remember that money is of a prolific, generating nature. Money can beget money, and its offfpring can beget more, and so on; five thillings turned is fix; turned again it is seven and three-pence, and fo on till it becomes an hundred pounds. The more there is of it, the more it produces every turning; fo that the profits rife quicker and quicker. He that kills a breeding fow, deftroys all her offspring to the thoufandth generation. that murders a crown deftroys all it might have produced, even scores of pounds.

He

Remember that fix pounds a-year are but a groat a day. For this little fum, which may daily be wafted in time or expence, unperceived, a man of credit may, on his own fecurity, have the conftant use and poffeffion of a hundred pounds. So much in stock, brifkly turned by an industrious man, produces great advantage.

Remember this saying, " That
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the