we consider it better that the nomenclature of the Society, even though it may not be in every instance the best, (and what is perfect?) ought to be followed without deviation, in order to prevent farther confusion. The Bostock strawberry is so called because it was raised at Bostock, in Cheshire: it is often called the Rostock, which has given rise to a supposition that it was a sort received from Rostock, in Pomerania. The word Pine, as applied to strawberries, is supposed to have originated from the French name, Fraisier Ananas, applied by Duhamel to the Surinam strawberry, from its pine-apple flavour. The Hautbois strawberry is dioecious, and it has been usual to introduce male plants as an essential part of the plantation of a bed of this species. Mr. Barnet thinks this may be dispensed with, as "all the varieties of the Hautbois in the garden of the Society are remarkably productive, and even the Globe Hautbois, which usually has been supposed to require proximity of the male plants, bore as well as others, and yet none of these had been introduced when the beds were formed. They were probably fecundated by the pollen of other varieties which produce hermaphrodite flowers with perfect stamens."

It is stated as a fact, that strawberries frequently re-produce themselves, unchanged, from seed. Perhaps the same thing may happen occasionally with the fruits of ligneous plants; and, if so, the golden pippin may be perpetuated from seed, as has been (Gard. Mag. 223.) suggested.

16. Description of a Green-house in the Garden of Sir Robert Preston, Bart. at Valleyfield, in Perthshire. In a Letter to the Secretary. By Mr. Alexander Stewart, C.M.H.S. Read December 7. 1824.

The singularity and beauty of this green-house consists in the form of the stages (fig. 86. a, b), which are calculated to

produce more variety than a

870

common sloping series of shelves. This arrangement also displays more surface to the light and air than the common mode. "It is now about ten years since the idea of making these stages struck me, and I am happy to say they have answered my most sanguine expectations, and have met with the approbation, not only of

my employer, but of most persons who have seen them." The back wall is covered with creepers, there is a large niche or alcove at one end, and a narrow border in front; the flues, span-roof, &c. are in the usual way. (fig. 87.)

17. Upon the beneficial Effects of protecting the Stems of Fruit Trees from Frost in early Spring. By Thomas Andrew Knight, Esq. F.R.S. &c. President. Read February 1. 1825.

Circumstances have led Mr. Knight to believe, that whenever a very large portion of the well-organised blossom of fruit trees falls off abortively in a moderately favourable season, the cause of the failure may generally be traced to some previous check which the motion and operation of the vital Auid of the tree has sustained. A severe frosty night, or very cold winds, during the barking season, is known to give such a check to the flow of sap in the oak tree, as to prevent it from being separated by the peelers till the return of milder weather.

"Neither the health of the tree, nor its foliage, nor its blossoms, appear to sustain any material injury by this sudden suspension of its functions; but the crop of acorns invariably fails. The apple and pear tree appear to be affected to the same extent by similar degrees of cold. Their blossoms, like those of the oak, often unfold perfectly well, and present the most healthy and vigorous character; and their pollen sheds freely. Their fruit also appears to set well; but the whole, or nearly the whole, falls off just at the period when its growth ought to commence. Some varieties of the apple and pear are much more capable of bearing unfavourable weather than others, and even the oak trees present, in this respect, some dissimilarity of constitution.

"It is near the surface of the earth that frost, in the spring, operates more powerfully, and the unfolding buds of oak and ash trees, which are situated near the ground, are not unfrequently destroyed, whilst those of the more elevated branches escape injury; and hence arises, I think, a probability that some advan

tages may be derived from protecting the stems or larger branches of fruit trees, as far as practicable, from frost in spring."

In support of this conclusion, Mr. Knight refers to an apple tree, which having had its stem and part of its larger branches covered with evergreen trees, had borne a succession of crops of fruit; whilst other trees of the same variety, and growing contiguously in the same soil, but without having had their stems protected, had been wholly unproductive; and to a nectarine tree, which having sprung up from a seed accidentally in a plantation of laurels, had borne, as a standard tree, three successive crops of fruit. The possessor of the nectarine tree, with the intention of promoting its growth and health, cut away the laurel branches which surrounded its stem in the winter of 1823-4, and in the succeeding season not a single fruit was produced.

"Never having known an instance of a standard nectarine tree bearing fruit in a climate so unfavourable, I was led to expect that the variety possessed an extraordinary degree of hardiness: but having inserted some buds of it into bearing branches upon the walls of my garden at Downton, in the autumn of 1822, I have not had any reason to believe that its blossoms are at all more patient of cold than those of other seedling varieties of the nectarine."

A China rose, sheltered by the stem of a plant of Irish ivy, grew and flowered with more than common vigour; and Mr. Knight suggests, that as the ivy, when it has acquired a considerable age, and produced fruit-bearing branches, exhibits an independent form of growth, which these branches retain when detached, if these were intermixed with plants of the more delicate varieties of the Chinese rose, or other low deciduous and somewhat tender flowering shrubs, so that the stems of the latter would be covered in the winter, whilst their foliage would be fully exposed to the light in summer, it is probable that these might be successfully cultivated in situations where they would perish without such protection: and the evergreen foliage of the ivy plants in winter would be generally thought ornamental. Detached fruit-bearing branches of ivy readily emit roots, and the requisite kind of plants would therefore be easily obtained.

As a farther experiment with reference to Mr. Knight's reasoning, we would suggest to such as have lately planted an orchard of standard trees, to clothe the stems and principal branches of half of them, during the months of March, April, and May, with loose bands of straw, and to observe the effects in comparison with the other half.

18. An Account of a Method of obtaining very early Crops of the Grape and Fig. By Thomas Andrew Knight, Esq. F.R.S. President. Read March 1. 1825.

Mr. Arkwright has proved that vines, of which the wood and fruit have ripened late in one season, will vegetate late in the following season, under any given degree of temperature; and Mr. Knight has shown the converse of this proposition to be equally true. A Verdelho vine, growing in a pot, was placed in the stove early in the spring of 1823, where its wood became perfectly mature in August. It was then taken from the stove, and placed under a north wall, where it remained till the end of November, when it was replaced in the stove, and it ripened its fruit early in the following spring. In May it was again transferred to a north wall, where it remained in a quiescent state till the end of August. It then vegetated strongly, and showed abundant blossom, which, upon being transferred to the stove, set very freely; and the fruit having been subjected to the influence of a very high temperature, ripened early in February.

The white Marseilles fig, and figue blanche, which very closely resemble each other, succeed most perfectly under similar treatment; and if the trees be taken from the stove in the end of May or beginning of June, and placed under a north wall till September, and be then again transferred to the stove, they will begin to ripen their fruit in January or February, and continue to produce it till the end of May or the beginning of June, when they should be again removed "from the stove.

19. On the Culture of the Pine Apple. In a Letter to the Secretary. By Mr. William Greenshields, Gardener to Richard Benyon de Beauvoir, Esq. F. H. S., at Englefield House, in Berkshire, Corresponding Member of the Horticultural Society. Read April 19. 1825.

The following directions are for the management of pine plants that are intended to show their fruit eighteen months after removal from the parent plant. In the end of August, or beginning of September, prepare a pit for the stock of crowns and suckers. A bed 24 by 6 feet will hold 400 plants. Stick in the crowns and suckers in rows, as thick as they will stand, and about one inch and a half deep. Keep to 70°, and shade during hot sunshine. Through the winter, apply dung linings, to keep the internal air between 50° and 60°, and protect the glass with mats during the night. If the bed should get very dry, give a gentle watering over the surface. No other care or attention will be necessary till March, the roots

will then have run nearly over the surface of the bed, and consequently the plants will require potting. Plant in pots of about six inches in diameter for the largest plants, and for the smaller in proportion. Leave on all the roots, and strip off three or four of the bottom leaves. Use deep potting, which is a great advantage to pine plants in all stages of their growth. When the potting is finished and the plants are set in the pit, shut the lights down close, letting them remain so from four to eight days, shading in hot sunshine.

Keep the air to 70° for the first three weeks; in that time the plants will be well rooted, and will then require free admission of air, and watering about twice a week, as well as frequent sprinklings with the engine in hot dry weather. The top heat must then be maintained, with dung linings, to 65°, and the lights must be covered with mats at night, till the summer heat makes it unnecessary, this will be in the month of June. At that time the plants will require fresh potting into pots two sizes larger than the last. There will be no fresh tan wanted at this season for the bed; turning it over one fork deep, to level the surface, is all that will be necessary. Pot the plants with balls entire, using the mould at this and every other potting in as rough a state as possible.

About the middle of August or September the plants will require potting in their fruiting pots, from twelve to fourteen inches in diameter. Pot the plants with balls entire, and deep in the pots, stripping off a few of the bottom leaves to let them push out fresh roots. In setting the pots give plenty of room to the plants, for they will make considerable progress after this potting. When the setting is finished give a little water to settle the mould: the plants will not require any more for ten days or a fortnight after. Keep the house rather warm, to make them root freely, and then water whenever they appear dry, which is the best criterion to go by in the autumn and winter months. Give plenty of air whenever the weather permits, and sprinkle with water when the bark bed and house become dry.

Begin fire heat when the internal heat of the house in the morning falls below 60°, keeping between that and 65° to the middle of January, when a rise of 5° will be necessary. In April fork the bed over two forks deep, adding a little fresh tan quite at the bottom of the pit, and then level the surface. Before the plants are replaced, three or four of their bottom leaves should be stripped off, and a little of the old mould taken from the surface of the pots, and replaced with fresh mould, raised quite to the tops of the pots. When the plants VOL. I. No. 4.

GG