§2. First impressions of London But now behold, In the quick forge and working-house of thought, Henry V., v. chor. 22-24 A foreigner's opinion London is a large, excellent and mighty city of business, and the most important in the whole kingdom; most of the inhabitants are employed in buying and selling merchandize, and trading in almost every corner of the world, since the river is most useful and convenient for this purpose, considering that ships from France, the Netherlands, Sweden, Denmark, Hamburg and other kingdoms, come almost up to the city, to which they convey goods and receive and take away others in exchange. It is a very populous city, so that one can scarcely pass along the streets, on account of the throng. The inhabitants are magnificently apparelled, and are extremely proud and overbearing; and because the greater part, especially the tradespeople, seldom go into other countries, but always remain in their houses in the city attending to their business, they care little for foreigners, but scoff and laugh at them; and moreover one dare not oppose them, else the streetboys and apprentices collect together in immense crowds and strike to the right and left unmercifully without regard to person; and because they are the strongest, one is obliged to put up with the insult as well as the injury. The women have much more liberty than perhaps in any other place; they also know well how to make use of it, for they go dressed out in exceedingly fine clothes, and give all their attention to their ruffs and stuffs, to such a degree indeed, that, as I am informed, many a one does not hesitate to wear velvet in the streets, which is common with them, whilst at home perhaps they have not a piece of dry bread. All the English women are accustomed to wear hats upon their heads, and gowns cut after the old German fashion-for indeed their descent is from the Saxons. Visit of Frederick, Duke of Würtemberg, 1592 [Rye] промож The Buildings Now at London the houses of the citizens (especially in the chief streets) are very narrow in the front towards the street, but are built five or six roofs high, commonly of timber and clay with plaster, and are very neat and commodious within and the building of citizens' houses in other cities is not much unlike this. But withal understand, that in London many stately palaces, built by noblemen upon the river Thames, do make a very great shew to them that pass by water; and that there be many more like palaces, also built towards land, but scattered and great part of them in back lanes and streets, which if they were joined to the first in good order, as other cities are built uniformly, they would make not only fair streets, but even a beautiful city, to which few might justly be preferred for the magnificence of the building. Besides that, the aldermen's and chief citizens' houses, howsoever they are stately for building, yet being built all inward, that the whole room towards the streets may be reserved for shops of tradesmen, make no shew outwardly, so as in truth all the magnificence of London building is hidden from the view of strangers at the first sight, till they have more particular view thereof by long abode there, and then they will prefer the buildings of this famous city to many that appear more stately at the first sight. Great part of the towns and villages are built like the citizens' houses in London, save that they are not so many stories high nor so narrow in the front towards the street. Others of them are built in like sort of unpolished small stones, and some of the villages in Lincolnshire and some other countries are of mere clay, and covered with thatch; yet even these houses are more commodious within for cleanliness, lodging and diet, than any stranger would think them to be. Most of the houses in cities and towns have cellars under them, where for coolness they lay beer and wine. Gentlemen's houses for the most part are built like those in the cities, but very many of gentlemen's and noblemen's palaces, as well near London as in other countries, are stately built of brick and freestone, whereof many yield not in magnificence to like buildings of other kingdoms, as Homby, built by Sir Christopher Hatton; Tybals lately belonging to the Earl of Salisbury, seated near London; and the Earl of Exeter his house near Stamford: by which palaces lying near the highway a stranger may judge of many other like stately buildings in other parts. The King's palaces are of such magnificent building, so curious art, and such pleasure and beauty for gardens and fountains, and are so many in number, as England need not envy any other kingdom therein. Among them being many a stranger may see near London: the King's palaces of Hampton Court, of Richmond, of Greenwich, of Nonsuch, of Oatlands, of Sheen, of Windsor, and in London the palace of Whitehall. FYNES MORYSON, Itinerary 1617 The Thames This is a long, broad, slippery fellow; rest he affects not, for he is always in motion: he seems something like a carrier, for he is still either going or coming, and once in six or eight hours, salutes the sea his mother and then brings tidings from her. He follows the disposition of the wind, if that be rough, so is the water; if that calm, so is this: and he loves it, because when the wind is at highest, then the water will best show her strength and anger: it is altogether unsteady, for it commonly is sliding away. Man's unconstant state, and uncertain frail condition is truly resembled by this, always either ebbing or flowing, being in a trice high and low. He will not be a martyr, for he will turn but never burn. Resolution is absolutely his guide and counsellor, for he will run his course. He cannot be said to be a well or spring without water, for he is puteus inexhaustus. Merchandise he likes and loves; and therefore sends forth ships of traffic to most parts of the earth: his subjects and inhabitants live by oppression like hard landlords at land, the greater rule, and many times devour the less: the city is wondrously beholden to it, for she is furnished with almost all necessaries by it. He is wondrously crossed, he is the maintainer of a great company of watermen. He is a great labourer, for he works as much in the night as the day. He is led by an unconstant guide, the moon: he is clean contrary to Smithfield, because that is all for flesh, but this for fish: his inhabitants are different from those upon land, for they are most without legs: fishermen seem to offer him much wrong, for they rob him of many of his subjects: he is seldom without company, but in the night or rough weather. He meets the sun but follows the moon: he seems to complain at the bridge, because it hath intruded into his bowels, and that makes him roar at that place. To speak truth of him, he is the privileged place for fish and ships, the glory and wealth of the city, the highway to the sea, the bringer in of wealth and strangers, and his business is all for water, yet he deals much with the land too: he is a little sea, and a great river. DONALD LUPTON, London and the Countrey carbonadoed 1632 A Water-man Is one that hath learnt to speak well of himself; for always he names himself, "the first man." If he had betaken himself to some richer trade, he could not have choosed but done well: for in this (though it be a mean one) he is still plying it, and putting himself forward. He is evermore telling strange news, most commonly lies. If he be a sculler, ask him if he be married, he'll equivocate and swear he's a single man. Little trust is to be given to him, for he thinks that day he does best, when he fetches most men over. His daily labour teaches him the art of dissembling for like a fellow that rides to the pillory, he goes not that way he looks. He keeps such a bawling at Westminster, that if the lawyers were not acquainted with it, an order would be taken with him. When he is upon the water, he is farecompany when he comes ashore, he mutinies, and contrary to all other trades is most surly to gentlemen, when they tender payment. The play-houses* only keep him sober; and, as it doth many other gallants, make him an afternoon's man. Londonbridge is the most terrible eye-sore to him that can be. And to conclude, nothing but a great press makes him fly from the river; nor any thing, but a great frost, can teach him any good manners. SIR THOMAS OVERBURY, Characters 1614-16 London Bridge The bridge at London is worthily to be numbered among the miracles of the world, if men respect the building and foundation laid artificially and stately over an ebbing and flowing water upon 21 piles of stone, with 20 arches, under which barks may pass, the lowest foundation being (as they say) packs of wool, most durable against the force of water, and not * On the South bank of the river, cp. p. 170. to be repaired but upon great fall of the waters and by artificial turning or stopping the recourse of them; or if men respect the houses built upon the bridge, as great and high as those of the firm land, so as a man cannot know that he passeth a bridge, but would judge himself to be in the street, save that the houses on both sides are combined in the top, making the passage somewhat dark, and that in some few open places the river of Thames may be seen on both sides. FYNES MORYSON, Itinerary 1617 It is almost art's wonder for strength, length, beauty, wideness, height: it may be said to be polypus, because it is so well furnished with legs: every mouth is four times filled in eight and forty hours, and then as a child it is still, but as soon as they be empty, like a lion it roars, and is wondrous impatient: it is made of iron, wood and stone, and therefore it is a wondrous hardy fellow. It hath changed the form, but as few do now-adays, from worse to better: certainly it is full of patience, because it bears so much and continually. It's no prison, for any one goes through it: it is something addicted to pride, for many a great man goes under it, and yet it seems something humble too, for the poorest peasant treads upon it: it hath more wonders than arches; the houses here built are wondrous strong, yet they neither stand on land or water. It is some prejudice to the waterman's gains; many go over here which otherwise should row or sail: it helps many a penniless purse to pass the water without danger or charges. Nothing affrights it more than spring tides or violent innundations. It is chargeable to keep, for it must be continually repaired. It is the only chief crosser of the water. His arches out-face the water, and like judges in the parliament are placed upon wool-sacks. One that lives here need not buy strong water, for here is enough for nothing; it seems to hinder the water-bearers' profit for the inhabitants easily supply their wants by buckets. He is a settled fellow, and a main upholder of houses; he is meanly placed, for there are divers above him, and many under him, and his houses may well be called Nonsuch, for there is none like them. And to conclude, he partakes of two elements, his nether parts are all for water, his upper for land; in a word, it is without compare, being a dainty street, and a strong and most stately bridge. DONALD LUPTON, London and the Countrey carbonadoed 1632 |