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kneeling down to pronounce the adjuration to order of the Elephant, which was stated to the Queen in the closet scene

have been instituted in the fifteenth century,

HairMother, for the love of grace, &c.

at a decidedly post-Hamlet period.

powder in time vanished from the stage, as Generally, it may be added, Kemble was from everywhere else-Mr. Bowden regretted slower of utterance and indulged in longer it because of the brilliance it gave to the pauses than other Hamlets, habits which grew eyes--and the French Revolution bringing upon him as he advanced in life, when from close-cropped Brutus heads into fashion, later his frequent attacks of asthma his voice did not Hamlets adopted the short curly wig with always come when he called for it. It was his which modern audiences are familiar. This nature, too, to be solemn and deliberate ; his however, at last, it seems is threatened with walk was always slow and pompous, the expres- abolition in favour of the flowing flaxen sion of his countenance was contemplative, and Scandinavian locks which Mr. Fechter's pictudid not easily lend itself to rapid transitions. resque Hamlet has brought upon the boards. His acting was perhaps impressive from its Looking back upon the records of the great weight and majesty rather than from its departed actors, and trying to form some impetuosity or impulse.

conception of their rendering of this wondrous Although Hamlet is not one of the charac- creation of our Shakespeare's,—passing before ters most completely identified with Edmund us in imaginary review the players who have Kean's great fame, it is clear that his per- strutted and fretted their hour upon the stage formance of the part made an extraordinary in Hamlet's sable garments,—we shall probably impression upon the town. Hazlitt speaks of arrive at the conclusion that David Garrick " brilliant success,'

," while he yet must have approached the nearest to the ideal suggests that it was too harsh and bitter, that of the character. Allowance would have to in Kean's hands Hamlet's misanthropy had be made for his low stature, and perhaps for a nothing amiable about it, but was fierce and certain stage-trickiness to which the Roscius was gloomy as Timon's, while occasionally the viru- clearly prone ; but grace and vigour of action, lence of crook-backed Richard showed itself wonderful variety of expression, passion, fire, from beneath the inky cloak of the Royal rapidity, a voice of great power and compass, Dane. Yet the critic commends highly the and surpassing and over-ruling intelligence, all passionate tenderness of the interview with these remain : a sum of attractions no other Ophelia, and admits that, although the play- player can show forth. Betterton, with all scene bordered upon extravagance (Mr. Kean his majesty of mien and noble elocution, had was perhaps the first Hamlet that crawled physical disqualifications, as had Henderson, in across the stage reptile-wise from Ophelia to spite of peculiar skill and attainments. Wilks the King), its force and animation could not be i and Barry, with great personal advantages, were too highly applauded.

wanting perhaps in solidity and intensity of There can be no doubt that the costume worn emotion : “The gods approve the depth and by Burbadge and Taylor was simply that of the not the tumult of the soul." And if Kean's actors' own time. Betterton and Wilks, we virulence and sullen passion were opposed to know, covered their heads with enormous full- Hamlet's princely philosophic nature, Kemble bottomed periwigs (costing some forty or fifty surely had far more of the Roman than the guineas each), which came in fashion at the Dane; was too sober when excitement was time of the Restoration, and remained in needed of him, and statuesque when he should favour until about 1720, and were probably, be moving. With living Hamlets it is not in parts of dignity and importance, to be seen within the purpose of this paper to deal. upon the stage for some years later. Garrick It may be noted, as a precedent to be paras Hamlet wore a court suit with a bag wig ticularly avoided, that Mrs. Siddons, on the powdered. Kemble appeared at first in a rich occasion of her benefit, to stimulate the slugblack_velvet court dress, with a star upon his gish curiosity of a provincial audience, played breast, the garter and pendant ribbon of an Hamlet repeating her performance more than order, mourning sword and buckles with deep once, especially at Bristol in 1781. A female ruffles ; his hair powdered, and permitted in Hamlet (“that's villainous,” as Hamlet says the scenes of feigned madness to flow down in reference to another stage enormity), bedishevelled on his shoulders. In later years cause, forsooth, it has been discovered there is he assumed a Vandyke dress” of black satin something feminine in Hamlet's nature ! With and bugles. Particularity in the matter of stage equal right might there be a male Lady Maccostume was coming into fashion, though beth, because certain of the lady's sentiments some hypercritics censured his suspending and her manner of delivering them manifest a from his neck by a sky-blue ribbon the Danish masculine tone.



market-place, with its eighteen gabled houses,

below. There were the old women (old before It is, I presume from the frequency with their time from hard open-air work, but seemwhich people indulge in it, agreeable on a tour ingly not the less happy for that) scolding the to have a habit of finding out defects and boys, and garrulous; and the servants of the blemishes, especially when one has a com- citizens (for Urach is a Stadt, and talks much panion to utter one's moans to : but, in my of its prefeudal grandeur) sitting outside their strolls last September vp and about the doors, gossiping; and a young father and mother valley of Urach in Suabia, my critical faculty, and three-year old daughter admiring the grave possibly from the want of an audience, became deportment of. the baby with a kitten (which completely one-sided and tediously benignant. was by no means so enthusiastic a spectator) put In the soft rainless weather, with a delicate into its Suabian perambulator. Then the hay. white veil of mist drawn over the sun, I found carts come home, drawn by sleek meek-eyed it very pleasant (the pleasanter for reminis- oxen, led by hay-making women in broad black cences of groaning Eilwagens and dusty high- flap hats, as though they had a complexion ways) to walk leisurely through a twenty-mile to spoil ; and a great calvacade of goats walks orchard, where the work of life seemed to be in from the hills, without any one asking them! for the men, to pull down, with long rake-like where they are going. Meantime, the big dog poles, and for the women, to gather up, piles of the market-place promenades for the benefit of purple plums and rosy-red or greenish- of the cool evening air, and with just a cursory yellow apples. What a sight must these view to broken victuals ; and the two rival valleys of Wurtemberg, the very kingdom of troops of ducks, in harmonious jealousy of this apples, be in spring, with forests of fruit trees latter canine weakness, leave off flapping about imbedded in meadow grass, and all in blossom! and melodiously quacking, and making believe After all, flowers are charming, but they fade, to paddle and swim in the dry gutters, and fly and become ugly mementoes of the decay of all into the most uncalled-for paroxysms of rage, things, after a few days ; but an orchard is a in fine-lady-like affectation of nervousness, at “joy for ever.

their neighbour, whom they have known from There are castles too in Urachthal, as in all duckling-hood. Later on into the evening, these Suabian highlands, which have fostered the stage-coaches rattle in noisily from each of so many princely German houses, the Hohen- | the four opposite valleys of which Urach is the stauffens of the past, the Hohenzollerns of sun and centre, with horn-blowing and yellowthe present. The country is indeed admir- and-scarlet coachmen looking unabashed as ably adapted as a nursery for such products, though their dress were not an absurd costume as well as for apples, with dales rich and for sensible men anywhere out of a play ; and, fertile for the peasants to till, and mountains at their advent, once again the chattering of which break at the top into vast wall-like women and children seems to blaze up before precipices, and the show of fortresses where- sinking into repose, which however, in this with nature mimics art, for knights to descend bright September, it will hardly do till the ripe from to their pillage, and to fly back to on hour of nine. At last the watchman begins their retreat. But though there are castles his rounds, singing beneath my window every there are no beggars, those usual custodians of hour a long lament about the good of early to : the picturesque-at least, I found none, except bed and early to rise, or saving of candles, or indeed a couple of infants playing at mendicity, something or other of a highly moral tendency; who relieved me of a Prussian groschen which and white gables start in the moonshine into had been troubling my serenity for days. sudden relief from all the houses of the Markt

At any rate, the dalesmen are as friendly as Platz, except my inn, which, being an inn though a tourist were a special source of wealth which thinks much of itself, and is the Royal to every one of them, and they offer one the Postamt, is up to the spirit of the times, and Wurtemberg salutation, Grüss Gott, with an has planed itself down into genteel ugliness. earnestness which is delightful. They live too When I go to bed, I can watch from my pillow so much in the open air in this early autumn the pointed roofs of the old place, as they weather, that by simply looking on one learns seem in solemn conclave to nod their garrulous as much of their ways and habits as by talking, heads together, and two mountains, broad and which is a charming discovery for persons who black, leaning over all. do not know the language.

Thus, on the

My ion, the Post Gasthof, considers itself second afternoon after my arrival at the town a model inn, and so it is. Baedeker calls it of Urach, I sat in the balcony of my inn, the best inn in these highlands, and that is and held, as it were, a levee of the population true also. The landlady is comely and civil ; of peasants and burghers gathered in the the landlord, besides being courteous, must

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German opera.

doubtless be an excellent politician, for he does | ously at the windows, that there made its apnothing but read the papers (and what can pearance a species of plum-pudding literally German landlord do more ?); and the boy blazing with lighted spirits, for which the chef waiters, like most German boy-waiters, are must have employed naphtha or vil of turpenhandy and attentive, though with a weight of tine at the least. Unlike what I must hencecare upon their shoulders which would bring forth regard as the unseasonable and effete a newspaper-boy or youthful clerk anywhere | ceremonial with brandy at a Christmas dinner, about New Square to an untimely grave. the sparks at Urach flew about for I do not Here, too, I heard again, for the first time this know how long, and singed both the sides of year, the friendly blessing, Gut appetit!the pudding and the hands of the two waiters ejaculated by the chambermaid or waiters as in a manner frightful to behold. they set down the first dish. And intellectual We had during my visit great doings food is not wanting. An old-fashioned German there. Two stout generals of the German town has no cafés, where citizens and strangers Bund, with appropriate aides-de-camp, in a fair meet to read the journals, play dominoes, way to become stout enough in time to fill cards, and billiards, smoke, and drink beer and their present superior's waistcoats, drove up cognac and coffee, as in France, where every while we were at dinner, and forthwith there village, even a Breton one, has its two or assembled a military band, and serenaded the three. So here the inn of the place provides warrior chieftains through a multitude of dishes the local paper, and may be also the Allge- for au hour or so. For that space of time the meine Zeitung, and thither come at night the whole population of Urach remained collected substantial townsmen and farmers to read and in the market-place, the girls laughing and discuss the news, and sup, or simply drink a whispering, children playing and quarrelling, seitel of wine. But the Post Gasthof at Urach and old men listening, just as in a scene in a is magnificent in its literary stores, for it takes

After dinner the satiated in, besides provincial and Augsburg papers, heroes and their satellites adjourned to the even an Illustrirte Zeitung. Let it not detract greenest of meadows, and there a miniature from the glory of this announcement that I army formed into platoons and broke and was reading a romance in the latter periodical, formed again, the glens and dells all round with much painfulness, with a view to study. panting and throbbing with the echoes of their ing the tone (a very low one) of modern musketry. I had strolled, after coffee, up to German fiction, when turning to the title, on the wide-spread ruins of Hohen Urach, famous being surprised by a certain brassy ring in the to the German mind for the death of the poet pathos or bathos, which carried me back to Nicodemus Frischlin. On the one side was the days of my childhood, I discovered to my Urach, compact, and with the sound of carpendisgust that I had been all this time absorbing ters' hammers rising clearly from the old church the sentiments of our renowned fellow-country- full of carved wood and stone, where I hope man, the most celebrated of all novelists of the they are preparing to obliterate the signs of name of Smith, for whom a certain penny church wardenly taste, of which I find England London weekly paper is said to have tempo- cannot boast a monopoly : on the other side rarily substituted poor Sir Walter Scott rose many hills, which enclosed on three at a cost of half its enormous circulation. sides, according to the custom of this country, Nor all these luxuries for the spirit deep green meadows. I could also see, far below,

excuses for neglect of material crav- a hut camp, and near it acres covered with ings. My hostelry offers to its guests once or bleaching linen, which at first I imagined (and even twice a day, if there exist persons capable was startled at it) to be German soldiers' linen, of the double exertion, half a dozen varieties but which doubtless belonged to one of the of herbs and potatoes dressed with vinegar, and manufactories, which about Urach, as about an equal assortment of cherries and plums Reutlingen, are seated by the streams, but and apples (so impartial is the German without soiling the purity of these greenest of stomach), to eat with savoury dishes. Here landscapes, or, apparently, killing the trout. also, I am proud to record, I, for the first, and An exquisite woodland path led me from certainly for the last time, partook of morsels of the summit to the meadow below, which was red-herring served as sauce to the bouilli. shared by manoeuvring troops and mowers But its grandest and most aspiring culinary deep in waves of hay. It is closed on two effort was displayed on the day of my arrival. sides by beechwoods swarming up the hill, and We dined at half-past twelve, and at that at its mouth by Hohen Urach and its great hour the day had, as usual, shaken off the skeleton of a fortress, now surmounted by mist and turned hot beyond compare. It was many bowery trees, while at the upper end when the sunshine was flaming in most furi- | rise crags over which falls a silvery waterfall.

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The scene, in the tender evening glow, had a street” of dirty Dorf Hülben, whose most surdelicate grace which is indescribable, so largely prising wealth in manure heaps suggested the was the loveliness due to harmonious com- Green Isle of the Ocean. When this ended, bination of many gradual lights and shades there dawned upon me a far swimming prospect and tremulous touches of tint and form. The over a vast sunlit plain to the left, towards fall itself is, in its kind, like the Staubbach ; which a deep road cut in the mountain-side å sight to be sneered at by those who know descends abruptly. As, however, I found that how in Scotland ever and anon a real river this was fast carrying me right away from the comes tumbling down the rocks, but not by tower and grey walls of Hohenneufen, which the rest of the world. For my part, being of had been long greeting me on the side of the an imaginative turn, I stood in a stalactite- opposite hill, I started aside over brooks and hung recess under it, with the same feelings, I ploughed fields, braving the extreme penalties of presume, as men stand under Niagara, and I the law, and fines, it may be, of full four and certainly got wetted as do they. Its birth- sixpence, and at last found myself close to the place as a waterfall is a semicircle, halfway up castle. I confess to having indulged in the dwarf mountain, with rocky precipices immense jubilation at my mingled courage and above and around, and groups of beeches sagacity in daring a short cut, which, alas, sprinkling the grassy area. What a place would I have so often found a long one, till, on Urach be for a German bath, if the chemists returning, my triumph was cruelly dashed by would only discover some mineral springs here- discovering a side path, by which, bad I been abouts! It has all the necessary properties : a less prematurely enterprising, I might have castle, waterfall, mountains, forests, meadows, reached my destination in half the time, and and ravines, and even antiquities, all ready | without any need for despair or ploughed to hand, and in inexhaustible variety. The fields. But that knowledge was a thing of the burghers seem aware of their advantages, and future. What I saw before me was a vast you find friendly finger-posts guiding you to dismantled fortress, occupying on the hills a the best points of view, with trim forest roads space which was almost precipitous on three in every direction, and benches, and, in the sides, and on the fourth is connected with a plateau by the fall, clumps of ornamental range of heights by a long narrow saddle-bow. shrubs planted by official hands. Who, the The ruins, which cover a great space, show the most bigoted amateur of untrodden valleys and fort to have been none of your robber knights' towns yet unknown to Weld and White, could puny lurking-places, as those on the Rhine or spurn luxuries like these, let alone Vesuvian the Neckar, but designed to embrace roomy puddings, when connoting, unless these pages barracks and ladies' bowers, and dungeons too. bring them, no Anglo-Saxon tourists, but only The view is wide enough to make one dizzy. an æsthetic student from Tübingen, or a com- It ranges over a vast plain, or what seems fortable native negociant, combining pleasure one, into which the castle-crowned promontory with business, and over his wine talking of advances proudly. I counted twenty-two redhaving come over the mountains” from tiled towns and villages, all visible at a glance, Reutlingen, as though just fresh from the intersected by vineyards, orchards, woods, and Jungfrau or Monte Rosa !

fields, while the sounds of human toil and The valley, up to within a couple of miles of children's mingled laughter and crying, and Urach, is too wide to be picturesque, though it the sweet chimes of a little church on the is pleasant enough for a walk when people are plain, I think, at Neufen, fluttered lightly up in a happy humour. Beyond Dettingen, to where I stood. indeed, with its parti-coloured steeple, the half The next morning was market day at Urach. circle of hills about and on the other side of The Platz was crowded with piles of oats, Urach, with the noble ruin enthroned in the and with meat and sacks of fruit. But just centre, looks full of promise. But the most as all the world was streaming into Urach, striking scenes open up beyond the town. it occurred to me that other duties made it The day after my arrival I made an excursion incumbent upon me to leave off being serenely to Hohenneufen. The road led me for an hour comfortable amidst Suabian orchards. So away up a narrow glen with many beeches, which, I hurried into the outer world, leaving behind however, as well as the cliffs, from an unpar- me regretfully the prettiest valleys that I have donable mistake of the pioneers in choosing ever seen, and doomed for weeks after to be the site of the path, threw their shade on haunted by memories of mysterious pathways the wrong side. A hot bit of table-land suc- straying off into cool woodland retreats far ceeded, without any shade except from fitful away from the hot sunshine, and towards Filranges of piled-up logs, and in the midst lay lages with names breathing the very essence of basking and sweltering the “long unlovely I apples and gables. WILLIAM STEBBING.

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I am an old fogey of a bachelor, the worse over that story ; I merely mention the fact to luck for me ; it's not my fault, though. I was show that notwithstanding these scanty grey in love once, deeply, desperately—too deeply hairs, matter-of-fact face, and solid business to love again ; but I am not going to maunder habits, I do understand the workings of the

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