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to the Bay of Islands, in New Zealand—to the best at the Antipodes for that purpose. The lovely anchorage off the town of Kororarika, rivers in the Hutt Valley, at Wellington—01 which had been the scene of some fierce fight also in the Canterbury Settlement—are worth ing with the natives some years before. Our

a trial.

Any of the New Zealand streams object was merely to take in a few sheep and are better adapted for salmon than those in vegetables, but as we had a day to spare, four Australia, or even Tasmania. of us were induced to start off for the famous We cannot resist the temptation of relating Keri-Keri falls, some fifteen miles from where the following anecdote of the Apostolic Bishop we were anchored. We had to pull some ten of New Zealand, the scene of whose adventure or twelve miles up a river, and after various lies here. He had persuaded the Bishop of little adventures " by flood,” such as running Newcastle to start with him from Sydney on aground on sand-banks, stepping out and a missionary cruise in his little yacht to New dragging the boat over into deep water, taking Caledonia, the New Hebrides, the Loyalty a stray shot at wild-ducks, &c., we landed at and other islands in his then extensive diocese. last at the Missionary Station where our Like ourselves they put in at the Bay of travels “by field ”—though fields there were Islands. The Bishop of New Zealand wished none-were to

When we had to show his brother of Newcastle a little of the discussed our potted salmon, and washed it country, and for that purpose proposed to take down with sundry bottles of ale and porter, him to a distant station on the other side of we set off in good spirits for the falls, led on this very river. The ground was soft and by a guide at the rate of five miles an hour. boggy, as we had found it, and the Bishop Our way at first lay along a well-beaten sheep- of Newcastle had never been accustomed to track, across flat country ; but before we had “rough it” in such a country as this. He got more than a mile and a half, our guide was could ride his fifty miles a day in his own evidently all abroad, and led us through swamps diocese, but his hardy brother always walked, and a thick ti-tree scrub. When we reached and besides there were no horses to be had plain ground again, no river was to be seen, here. Always neat and spruce in his dress, no fall to be heard, although we had travelled looking “as if he had just come out of a bandmore than the distance necessary to bring us box,” and afraid like a cat to wet his feet, he to it. Our spirits were by this time a little picked his way most carefully and delicately, damped, and our bodies more so, for the rain unlike his brother Bishop who tramped on had been pouring down in torrents ; still we “through thick and through thin,” till at last went on, determined (if possible) to see the they came to the river side. The river was object of our visit, a fall of some eighty or swollen with the heavy rain which had been ninety feet in height. At last we came to the pouring down in torrents for some days prestream, and a low distant murmuring was viously, and he of Newcastle looked awfully heard, which we were sanguine enough to puzzled, wondering how they were to crossbelieve might be the water-fall, but whether neither bridge nor ford being visible in any up the river or down the river we could direction. He was still further puzzled, when scarcely tell. We went up for a few hundred he saw the Bishop of New Zealand without a yards—the sound gradually increased, but word deliberately taking off shoes, leggings, never approached to anything like a roar, stockings, and last of all his breeches. In when, on coming to a sudden bend of the reply to his brother Bishop's “whatever river, we espied a fall of some four or five next ?” he coolly collected his various articles feet !-all we had to repay us for our long of dress, and stepped into the river up to his scramble through the scrub and swamps. Our apron, calling out as he did so, “Now then, guide now honestly confessed that he was Newcastle, off with your breeks, and follow “lost," and had no idea where we were. We set your leader !” There was no help for it, as off down the stream, hoping to stumble upon there was no other means of crossing the river, the object of our visit, but we had no time to and the good Bishop invariably refused to be make a long search, as the sun was rapidly carried across by any of his Maori suite, on the going down. There was nothing for it but to ground that it was not right to treat such strike off across country again for the station noble fellows “like beasts of burden.” where we had left our boat, which we managed This modern Apostle used to think nothing to reach just as the sun was setting. Thus, of travelling from Auckland, on the norththen, having failed in our attempt to reach eastern side of the Upper Island, to New the falls, our readers must excuse a descrip- Plymouth, or Taranaki, on the south-western tion of them.

side-thence across country to Wellington, The river, by the way, is a splendid one for through Wanganui, Weikanei, and Porirua; salmon ova to be sent out to one of the very then across the straits to Nelson in any vessel


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he could get, and on to the Canterbury Plains, rally supposed to have been mad, entered his walking his 800 or 1000 miles from village to house and made a most murderous attack upon village, with a few native attendants to carry Mrs. Alexander, whom he hacked and cut with his blankets and potatoes !

a batchet and left for dead. He was secured by It is perhaps hardly necessary to add that his own friends, who tried him by their own by the time the two Bishops had finished laws, and executed him after their own fashion. their cruise, one of them had had enough of They killed him, cut him in pieces, and disit, and gave up

“ missionary cruising ” as a tributed the portions amongst the various bad job. Since that time Bishop Patteson has families in the neighbourhood, who testified taken the “oversight” of all these islands to their abhorrence of their comrade's villany by the northward of New Zealand, and is suc- making a good dinner literally at his expense ! ceeding admirably.

The first day we landed amongst these simpleOn our return to the ship off Kororarika, minded savages, the doctor, who happened to we found everything ready for a start, but be very stout and in excellent condition, exbefore shifting the scene to the New Hebrides, cited by far the greatest attention.

Whilst we we must say a word or two about New Zealand were sitting on a log waiting for a boat to take in general, every port of which we have visited, us off to the ship, men and women crowded except Otago. To our readers one and all we round him, feeling his arms and legs, smacking

you hear anything said against any of their lips as they did so, no doubt thinking the various settlements in this most magnifi. what a splendid broil they would make ! cent country, dou't believe a word of it.” The inhabitants of all the islands touched There is no climate in the world like it ; no upon in this paper—viz., the New Hebrides, colony in which Englishmen thrive so well. To Loyalty Islands, Queen Charlotte Islands, and say nothing of the minerals, gold fields, coal- the Solomon Islands—are not Malays, like the fields, &c., the Canterbury settlement at no people of Eastern Polynesia, but belong to the very distant period will be the granary of Papuan (or Negro) race ; in colour, however, Australasia, and its capital, Christ Church, will several shades lighter than the African : but be the London of the Southern Hemisphere. they are all cannibals. The present unhappy war, confined entirely to We left Aneiteum on the 24th August, and the western side of the North Island, will soon next day were off Tana-Port Resolution and be brought to a close, and would never have its immediate neighbourhood being the scene commenced had we ourselves been wise.

of our adventures in that island. Leaving A few days' sail with a fair wind soon the ship to “stand off and on ” outside, we enabled us to cast anchor off Aneiteum, the landed in our cutter, cooked a few sweet potasouthernmost of the New Hebrides. Here toes in the hot sulphur springs, and after our We found a sandal-wood establishment con- frugal repast started for the volcano, which we ducted by a Captain Padden-the same adven- found labouring away just as actively as it did turer who was recently obliged to escape from in Captain Cook's time. A walk of four miles New Caledonia in an open boat, where he —along a beautiful pathway, flanked on either seems to have taken part in an attempt to side by gigantic trees, amongst them the banexcite the natives against the French. His yan and wild nutmeg-tree, as well as by the establishment at Aneiteum gave employment hibiscus and other flowering shrubs of various to a great number of the cannibal population kinds—brought us to the foot of the volcano. of the island, both male and female, and had There were eight or ten craters, extending evidently had considerable effect in semi

area of three miles in diameter, civilising the natives, who, but for his in- which was covered thick with scoria and ashes. fuence, would in all probability have given Four or five of these craters were extinct; one the missionaries (sent out by the London Mis- or two were smouldering and smoking, but two siouary Society) the same warm reception that were active enough with a vengeance. Every the people of other islands in the same group

five minutes there would be a tremendous exhave hitherto done, who invariably cook and plosion, and when the smoke had cleared away, eat them !

we could see high up in the air immense masses There were at that time two missionaries on of scoria, looking like great blocks of wormthe island, one on the side where the anchor- eaten timber, which were red hot when they age is, the other on the opposite side. Mr. fell--hot enough almost to melt the few Alexander, who was the first to attempt the “coppers” upon which we experimented. conversion of the natives, and who had settled All the time we were standing on the very down before the arrival of Captain Padden, edge of the most active crater, and had to was not so fortunate as Mr. Geddes, who came dodge the falling masses as best we could. to assist him. One of the savages, who was gene- The effect was grand in the extreme, and the



this group.

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reports excessively loud. They are sometimes dered in retaliation for an outrage committed heard as far as Aneiteum, a distance of 35 by a sandal-wood trader a short time before, miles. We remained till late in the afternoon, who had shot a chief, named Gaskin, whom and then returned by another path, attended we had found very civil and attentive. It is (as before) by several natives and by Captain the reckless conduct of these unprincipled Padden, who knew them, and had come with traders that renders cruising amongst this us on business.

group of islands so very dangerous. A native When about half-way back to the landing- offends them in some way or other, and they place, we came upon a large party of men and deliberately shoot him. His friends and tribeswomen, who were celebrating the ripening of the men retaliate on the first white man they meet, bread-fruit: in fact it was a regular “harvest- no matter whether the guilty individual or not; home,” and a strange sight it was. They were and woe betide the unhappy voyager who is assembled in a hollow circular space of ground, the first to land here after an outrage has been surrounded by a natural amphitheatre of rocks, committed by some rascally sandal-wood trader, over which our path led, and from which we or bêche-de-mer collector. I never heard what had a splendid view of the extraordinary became of Captain Padden, but it is due to spectacle below us. There must have been at him to say, that he was an honest, upright least 500, men and women together, who were trader, and highly esteemed by the natives of dancing most vigorously, going round and round, the men in the centre, and the women, On the 27th of August we anchored off two deep, forming the outside circle. The Erromango, the island where John Williams, latter had their faces painted black—the pig- the missionary, was murdered in 1839. Two ment used being plumbago, which is found in other missionaries of the London Society were large quantities, and of the very finest quality, stationed here in 1842, but were obliged to in the neighbouring island of Erromango, and leave in consequence of an epidemic breaking extensively used by both sexes. The women's out soon after their arrival, the idea of the heads were decorated with feathers, their arms natives being that foreigners always bring with bracelets of white shells strung together, sickness and death in their train. and their bodies from waist to knee covered Soon after we anchored we were visited by with a thick crinoline, composed of the bright

numbers of natives, to whom we made presents green leaves of the Dracæna plant, and a of pipes and tobacco, strips of calico and red bustle behind of fern leaves. The men had comforters, &c. ; whilst they were on board their faces smeared with red ochre, and their they saw the ship's barber shaving some of the arms decorated in the same way as the women. men, and many of them begged for a shave Both were armed with clubs, which were held aloft and seemed highly delighted with the operaas they coursed along in the dance to the music tion. of their rattling bracelets. Each dance would Next day the surgeon and myself went on 2 last for five minutes, the “fun” getting gradu- dredging expedition in the dingy, taking with ally faster and more furious,” till it was us and landing on the beach an officer of the brought to a sudden termination by a simul- 11th Regiment who had come with us for a taneous yell of delight. After a brief rest they cruise. He was a keen hand at bargaining! would begin again and go through the same with the natives for curiosities, and anxious to figure. The appearance of the dancers by cut us all out, took this opportunity of landing twilight—the painted beauties with the per- all alone and getting the first pick of everyspiration pouring in streams down their faces thing, whilst the doctor and myself were intent and backs—was a most extraordinary sight, upon dredging up, if possible, one of the farand it was long before we could prevail on

orange couries.” He took with him ourselves to leave them. Shortly after leaving a bundle of razors for bartering with, and no this spot, we parted with our native guides, sooner exhibited one than the news spread like Captain Padden rewarding them with a little wild-fire amongst the natives far and wide. tobacco each, the only article of barter which He was soon surrounded by a crowd, wildly they then cared to accept ; but they seemed gesticulating, and jabbering like a parcel of to be dissatisfied with the quantity, and mut. monkeys. He did not at first know what to tered what we thought to be threats of ven- make of it, and called lustily to us to come to geance as they parted from us about half a his assistance with the dingy. We saw that mile from the landing-place. We saw nothing he was in no danger, and took time to haul up more of them, however, and arrived on board our dredge, and then leisurely pulled away quite safe. A small schooner that visited Port towards him. By the time we arrived on the Resolution some months afterwards did not spot he had discovered what the good-natured! escape so fortunately, Her crew were all mur- savages wanted, and was busy operating on a

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sable chin with a razor made for sale or barter landed with his chronometer to get a set of but never meant for shaving, much less for dry sights. The natives could not understand shaving ! The sight was a most ludicrous one what he was after, and drove him into the -our friend scraping away for very life in an sea, his lordship having to swim for his awful funk, and the natives one after another life, and spoiling his chronometer. Nothing submitting patiently to the ordeal with tears daunted he put in here again the following running down their cheeks, and streams of year, and landed on the beach amidst the blood flowing from their lacerated chins. assembled natives. They must have heard

By way of serving him out for having many something of him in the meantime, for they a time cut us all out in the way of bargaining now received him with open arms, and carried for curious clubs, &c., we pushed off again him in procession on their shoulders to their into deep water, leaving him to his fate and main village. his barbarous employment! We did not listen After skirting along Espiritu Santo we to his entreaties to be taken away, till he had arrived on the 13th at Vanikolo, one of the gone over at least a dozen chins.

Queen Charlotte group, and anchored at the During the time we stayed we were treated very place where La Perouse lost his two with the greatest kindness, and on leaving the vessels in 1788, as was most satisfactorily island brought away with us two smart boys ascertained by Dillon, in the Research, in of 12 and 16 years of age for the Bishop of 1826, who discovered, and sent to France, New Zealand. At that time his lordship used numerous relics of the unfortunate navigator to spend the winter months in cruising amongst and his ships, for which he was made a these islands, returning boys from his school Chevalier of the Legion of Honour.

We saw at Auckland, and obtaining others for a year's very little of the natives, who lived in the training in their place. By this means he had interior of the island. They were the first acquired the confidence of the savages, and had betel-nut chewers we had fallen in with. We obtained a most extraordinary influence over left on the 16th, and on the 18th and 19th them. When our interpreter explained to the ran along the south side of San Christoval, in ferocious-looking chiefs that we would under the Solomon group, and on the evening of take to deliver their sons and heirs to the the 21st anchored in a hitherto undiscovered good Bishop, they sent them at once. Their harbour inside the Island of Malata, to which wardrobe was not a very extensive one, and we gave the name of Port Adam. On landing, they required no preparation in the way of we found the village deserted, evidently having packing, but stepped into the boat as they been abandoned in great haste. We remained were, in puris naturalibus. They were soon here a few days, but saw nothing of the natives rigged out on board, in a few weeks were till we were leaving the harbour, when we taught to make their own clothes, and long espied them making their way in their canoes before we had an opportunity of falling in with from various distant points to the village near the Bishop's schooner, had become expert which we anchored. sailors.

On the 1st of September we ran over to Fati, or Vate, commonly called Sandwich Island, and anchored in Havannah Harbour. One object we had in visiting this island was to return a boy, the son of a chief, whom Captain Oliver, of the Fly, had brought away to Sydney the year before. There were great rejoicings on his return, and his old father loaded us with presents of pigs, vegetables, such as yams, taro, &c., and fruits of various Whilst we were running along San Christoval, kinds.

between Mount Toro and Malo Bay, we were On the 8th we sailed for Malicolo, and surrounded with canoes full of natives, with anchored in Port Sandwich for the afternoon. whom we spent the greater part of a day Several of us landed, and after inspecting their bartering. When it was getting time to make curious images in the village near the landing- sail again, we explained to the natives on place, started off into the interior along a board that they must leave the ship. They native track, but were with difficulty allowed all did so except one, a fine young lad of to pass a chief who was coming down attended seventeen or eighteen, who ran up into the by two of his harem. However, we embarked main-top, and refused to return to his canoe. without an accident. Shortly afterwards the We explained to him that we should probably Bishop of New Zealand put in here, and never return to his island, and that if he went

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away with us, he might never be able to black pupils. I asked the Bishop to allow me revisit his friends and native island. Still he to take Mesty on shore with me for the night, would go and did go, intimating that he would and then learnt something of his previous moi moi (sleep) in the ship. The men con- history. By this time he could speak English tributed various articles of clothing, and in a accurately, and could write and read well. On few minutes his kit was complete, and he was asking him why he had insisted upon leaving quite at home, becoming a sailor at once home, he burst out laughing and told me that instinctively. He could go aloft, reef, &c., his big brother, who was the chief of that part with the best of them. Six months after- of the island, had “licked ” him the morning wards we fell in with the Bishop of New we visited the place, and so he determined to Zealand, and handed over our new friend to run away and leave him. He told me that on him, much against his will. A year after his return his friends would look upon him as wards the writer of this article fell in with a much greater man than his brother, in con. him again, when the Bishop looked in at sequence of his travels in distant countries, Sydney on his way North with his freight of and he was not in the least afraid to return.

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He became one of the Bishop's most useful ferns, and magnificent forest trees of various pioneers, and I hope has never regretted the kinds. They are well within the Tropics, step he took in resenting his brother's beating. lying between latitudes 99 and 20° 30' south.

A few words respecting the fauna, &c., of In New Caledonia, latitude 20° to 24° south, the islands, as well as the dress, manners, and the gum-tree of Australia flourishes to a great customs of the natives, will conclude this extent. chapter.

The dress throughout the islands varies but In New Zealand and the other islands little, a broad or narrow band across the loins referred to, there is not a single venomous making all the difference, where there is a reptile of any kind whatever, the only in- dress at all. In the New Hebrides it is imdigenous animal being a small Kangaroo rat. possible to describe it, the attempt to make a The famous Aracauria—the Kauri of New decent appearance in society being the most Zealand—we found in New Caledonia and ludicrous thing ever witnessed. Vanikolo. In spite of the volcanic formation In Fati, the women

wear a broad belt of of the islands, they are covered with a dense matting, made from the inner rind of some vegetation, a great variety and profusion of tree, with some little attempt at ornament in


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